Getting Dialed - Squaw Valley

Publication: Skiing Magazine

THE SCENE

On one level, everything is bigger, better, newer, faster, and easier at Squaw. In its early days Ski Corp decided that it was a private 'uphill transportation company.' Lead dog, 87 year-old Alex Cushing, has kept true to that mission. So far he has installed 33 lifts including four 6-Paks, a European-style tram, and North America's only Funitel - $20 million alone! He also put a gigantic hot tub, bungee tower and ice rink on one of the peaks.

On another level, Squaw is a massive weekend ant farm - confusing, cluttered, and busy. You better have a credit card that can lift 50 times its weight, too. Lesson/equipment packages go for $99, and a day lift ticket runs $56. But there is a very good reason that locals hitch hike out of the poor house to drop $1549 on a season pass. Actually there are a bunch of reasons: KT-22, Olympic Lady, Cornice 2, Headwall, Granite Chief and Silverado. These aren't runs. They're lifts that service huge amounts of varied terrain.

THE SKINNY

Because Intrawest is busy building Switzerland in the parking lot, you need to strategize if you don't want to trudge a mile to the nearest lift. One option is to sport $20 for underground valet parking. Or buy your car a season pass to Preferred Parking for $349! The saving grace for the rest of us is Far East where they sell tickets and lessons. This 6-Pak chair provides easy access to the main lifts and is great for laps if KT is slow opening on a powder day.

When skiing Squaw regularly you risk getting fat and lazy because the lift network is so good. You also get pretty good at challenging (read 'scaring the crap out of') yourself and becoming a damn good skier.

The best way to go about it is to do what Squaw's old posters promote: "Ski The Sun." Oftentimes there is a morning temperature inversion so it will actually be warmer up top. Start out on 'the couch' (Squaw One Express) to get into higher elevation and sun exposure while scoping out a ton of terrain on the way. Siberia gets early rays and so does the Kitchen Wall behind the Palisades. The Outer Meadow of Granite Chief turns from nice mush in the morning to sheer glop by afternoon. When things warm up a little you can explore anything on KT and Cornice II. The longest cruisers are from the Resort at Squaw Creek chair but the most popular is Shirley Lake. Granite Chief and Siberia are slightly steeper groomers. The best bumps are on KT's huge West Face and Jonny Moseley's Run - how apropos.

Then the dream day comes: a foot or two of fresh snow, flakes sparkling everywhere, no clouds. Squaw becomes a 4,000 acre mind game. You have to put yourself in the snowboard boots of the dude in front of you and try to think where he and everyone else wants to go. Then simply don't go there. Remember this: lifts open at different times as Ski Patrol makes its way around the mountain. So everyone chases the virgin snow at the most recently open chairs. But for those of you own fat skis (which should be everyone by now) you can go to the places that have been open for an hour or so and find yourself alone. If you are content with hauling through deep snow while crossing a few tracks, stay behind the ratpack and you'll do uninterrupted laps.

JUST THE FACTS:

Chance that Alex Cushing will end up frozen next to Walt Disney: 99%

Chance that Cushing's last wish will be for Ski Crop to dig a tunnel to its sister resort in Korea: 50%

Average number of storms per winter that give Squaw lighter snow than Utah: 2

Percent of Tahoe locals who'd rather live in Salt Lake City for all of those other days: 0

Number of Reno strippers working as lift ops to save money for a ski pass: 0

Number of Squaw lift ops saving money to see strippers in Reno: 453

THE ROUTE

From Reno: I-80 West to Route 89 South

From San Francisco: I-80 East to Route 89 South

INSIDE LINE:

During storms you can avoid congestion at the agricultural station on I-80 West by taking Old Hwy. 40 to Donner Lake. For great scenery continue up Hwy. 40 to Donner Summit where it joins 80. In horrible westbound traffic stay on it to Nevada City.

THE EQUIPMENT GAME:

Your best options in the Valley are Granite Chief and Squaw Valley Sport Shop which have well-maintained gear. The Sport Shop is slightly more expensive but is also walking distance to lifts whereas the Chief is just outside Squaw's parking lot. Ask about getting your rental money back if you decide to purchase a pair of skis. Ski Corp just bought entirely new telemark gear.

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© 2001 alex west writing and photography